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Author Topic: Mapiranje CA18DET  (Read 8516 times)
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ZaX
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« on: January 26, 2006, 11:26:59 AM »

Dakle situacija je sljedeća.
CA18DET, AFM je od skylinea 80mm, injektori su Nismo 555ccm.
Piggyback je e-manage koji ima u meniju podršku za drugi afm (odabereš koji imaš i on sam preračunava volažu i afm). Isto tako upišeš vrijednosti injektora before/after.

Screenshot menija u e-manage gdje se to radi
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/photos/profec_e-01_screen_shots/DSC06693.JPG
E-manage ima upisanih 40-ak afm-ova tak da samo biraš koji imaš i on sam sve radi, cool!

E sad kad zbrojiš i oduzmeš sve to ispda da je najbolje upgreadti veći afm i injektore istovremeno.

Eto i objašnjenja zašto je to tako

Stock Z32(300ZX) MAF = 530 WHP
Stock SR(200SX) MAF = 260 WHP

so the Z-32 MAFS can flow 2.04 times as much air as the stock maf. this is great for High HP cars. so IN THEORY say your is cruising down the road and you are making 50 hp under a light acceleration. Now airflow meters are not a linear response but have more of a exponential response. but for this example we will assume a linear response to make things easier...when you get into the exponential response you need to include a conversion function that is beyond the scope of this response...and in the end makes no difference in the final answer (thanks regis)...

So where were we? oh yeah 50 Hp...so by the conversion factor and assumed linear response above the SR maf would read .96 volts and the Z32 would read .47 volts. Now for your to run correctly using the Z-32 and stock injectors the ECU needs to be seeing .96 volts. the S-AFC knows the response multiplier and multiplies the incoming MAF voltage (.47 from the Z-32) by 2.04 and sends out a .96 volt output to the ECU....and you drive down the road with no problem.


then you lay into full power...say for this example your has 300 Hp capacity with it's ncie s-15 BB turbo, but stock injectors (good to 270ish WHP) you lay into it and at 260 Hp the stock MAF would max out (5.0 V) and this is what the ECU would need to see to make the run right. the Z-32 would now be outputting 2.45 volts into the S-AFC. it multiplies by 2.04 and you get 5.0 Volts and your shuts down. The ECU sees anything greater than 5.0V as a fault and shuts the system down until proper voltages are seen (maybe a grace window to 5.12V as stated earlier). So how did i run 380 HP on a S-AFC and a stock ECU??

Injector correction!!

so being smart and realizing you have 300 Hp on tap but only 270HP worth of injector you go out and buy new injectors. A bright Yellow new set of new Tomei 555cc Side feeds...life is good! you go back and do the calculation for baseline correction for the injectors.

(370/555) - 1 = correction factor = -33%

so you go in and set all your high and low throttle settings to -33%. and you go drive your !! now in the real world the settign once tuned on a wideband would be much different due to ECU mapping...on my with the described setup there were places where i was runnign -45% correction to get a desired 12.0:1 AFR...but that is irrelevant for a 300 HP such as this example!!

so back on the highway light acceleration 50 Hp...for the to run properly the injectors need to see 2/3 of the on time of the stock 370's at this power, and thus 2/3 of the expected original MAF voltage....if you dont understand this i can clarify in another post. so you would usually have .96v coming in...but were on the Z-32 so we have .47. the S-afc performs the airflow conversion of 2.04 and you have .96V. next the S-afc performs the programmed correction factor of -33% that you entered. so you have

0.96 - (0.96 * .33) = output to ECU = .64V

now as you can tell that is exacly 2/3 of the ORIGINAL (stock maf/injector) air flow that would have been needed to run the . and you drive perfectly down the road..

then you come across that pesky mullett in the 5.slow Rustang and you decide to let the SR breathe and show this neaderthal who is king of the road. you wind your SR all the way out to it's full 300Hp potential and leave mulletore wondering what happened...but how did it work??

so you went all the way to 300 HP. on a stock MAF that would have been 5.77 volts..not possible. and as you know the ECU would have shut you down at 5.0 V anyway. but we have the Z-32 and we were runnign bigger injectors so here is what we had!! Z-32 output was 2.83 volts...Airflow meter corection is 2.04 and the Injector tuning had you at -33%. so our final voltage to the ECU was as follows..

2.83 * 2.04 = 5.77 (same as before)

now for injector correction

5.77 - (5.77 * .33) = final output to ECU = 3.87V

now as we discussed earlier this needs to be 2/3 of the original injector on time .... and it is very close (off by a few thousnaths of a volt). the ecu has no problem with a 3.87 Volt input and you are merrily going along leaving the mullet junky in the dirt!!

now...you get a good bonus at work and decide to upgrade the turbo!! you put on nice GT25R and you are now capable of 390 Hp (if only you could find that mustang again and really give him a lesson!!) so you go out there and stand on the gas!!. spool that baby upa nd right before redline the shuts off. Agrhh...your frustration is un-paralleled by anything known to man!! why you ask yourself as you cruise back to the garage in low boost mode!! lets do the calcs!!

390 Hp on a Z-32 would produce 3.68V out of the MAF...it goes into the S-AFC

times 2.04 = 7.50V

Injector correction = -33% so

7.50 - (7.50 * .33) = final output to ECU = 5.02V

oops theres our problem the ECU shut us down again! its time for a re-program or bigger injectors....but at this point you are so far away fromt eh origianl power levels...i suggest just a reprogram.

Hopefully that clarifies any misconceptions about the S-afc and S-afc2!! and how they work!!

--------------------

E sad, pošto ja radim ovaj motor prvenstveno da bude POUZDAN, a tek onda da ima snagu, od ostalih djidja i igračaka sam ugradio u auto EGT, senzor je u ispušnoj grani prije turbine.



Senzori i ćukice


LM-1 WB 02




Zadnje, što sam nabavio je g-tech RR za mjerenje performansi.
Tu čitaj o preciznosti istih
http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=4&article_id=9380&page_number=6

E sad, molim te znam da je "ona" turbina bolja od ove, da je "xyz" wbo2 bolji od ovog mojeg, da je VBOX preciniji od g-techa, ali molim imajte u vidu da nisam tuning firma nego individualac kojem ova oprema treba za povremeno korištenje.

Point is da mi pomognete maksimalno iskorisiti ONO ŠTO IMAM, a ne ono što postoji tamo negdje u dalekom japanu. :kinez:

Any ideas? Osim klasike, max out i onda klasični lean-out proces.

Mislim da je prava sreća da imam ovaj piggyback, tako da imam jako dobru base mapu koju ću poslije samo ispeglati.

[Edited on 26-1-2006 by ZaX]
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ZaX
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« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2006, 02:30:31 PM »

šta svi junaci nikom ponikoše? :rolleyes:

Još danas kupim ovo i ne želim više trošiti pare na auto dijelove :bich:

1) 19$ PRofec E-01 & E-01 External Signal Harness, (Connects to  the profec e-01  brain to read A/F input, TPS input, Speed input, and much more!)
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/photos/profec_e-01_photos/DSC05534.JPG

2) 20$ PRofec E-01 Pressure Sensor Harness  (Goes between the e-manage and profec e-01 so the e-manage can read boost from the profec e-01 boost sensor)
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/photos/profec_e-01_photos/DSC05799.JPG

3) 4$ PRofec E-01 & E-01 Meter Cable (Generic Brand, 12 feet)  (This cable connects between your profec e-01 (or e-01) and your greddy 60mm gauge with peak/warning, it will let you display the gauge readings digitally on the profec e-01, you will have the ability to log your readings up to  3 hours, set warning, see peak reading)
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/photos/profec_e-01_photos/DSC05810.JPG

4) 34$ 12-pin, E-manage Ignition Harness #15900902 (use this harness to control your ignition system timing, 5 feet)
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/photos/emanage_photos/DSC05805.JPG
 
5)20$ E-manage Air/Fuel input Harness #15900912 (NEW!!!) This harness is used to feed the air/fuel signal from your wideband brain to the e-manage.
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/a-f_harness.jpg
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/a-f_harness_wires.jpg
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Zeljko
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AGA


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« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2006, 03:48:28 PM »

ZAX - RESPECT ::
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The First, DASTEK UNICHIP TECHNICALLY THE BEST; If you need more POWER, you need more AIR(cmf)
ZaX
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« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2006, 04:54:34 PM »

Najbolji upgrade ove godine:
Plinska peć!

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kutija
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« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2006, 06:12:28 PM »

Imas sve sta ti treba ::

Sa WB i EGT i ovim dodatnim harnessom za ostale stvari imas skoro pa standalone...
Samo polagano i nigdje ne zuri.
Napravi prvo kako si i sam rekao....
Samo lijepo svaki put logiraj sve podatke pa malo po malo...
Recimo ja bih air fuel ratio pod max. opterecenjem stavio oko 10.5 , 11 max. ako ces auto koristit za drift i zelis pouzdanost.
Znam da je to dosta bogata smjesa ,ali koliko sam  vidio ljudi preporucuju tako pogotovo ako se auto koristi dosta u vidu autosporta tj. pod max. opterecenjem...

http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=91203



Vjerovatno se Hic nece slozit sa mnom:)
Pitaj njega za savjet on bi trebao imat dosta prakticnog iskustva pri mapiranju turbo auta(znas i vise od mene sta on radi/je radio tako da.....)

Mozes i paljenje sa e-manageom korigirat?
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Peugeot 405 T16
ZaX
Guest
« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2006, 08:25:22 PM »

Quote
Originally posted by kutija

http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=91203

Mozes i paljenje sa e-manageom korigirat?


after all, do you want to beat someone on the racetrack or the dyno?
Najjači savijet. ::

Sa ovim dodatnim harnessom mogu pomicati i paljenje.
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dr.Maljak
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« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2006, 09:06:05 PM »

Hm, mami me WB...hehehehehehehe

Takoder sam za nesto bogatiju smijesu, malo vise goriva ali vise sigurnosti, ipak radis torture na autu...djelovi jesu profesionalni ali nece skodit, barem ce se vise hladit...

Da te i pitam, ono sto si stavio na Hraweb, ono da ti se desilo s klipovima, Bacao si buhu zar ne?
a ja se totalno bacio na suosjecanje...joj joj...
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more booost
ZaX
Guest
« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2006, 11:30:13 PM »

Quote
Originally posted by Maljak
Da te i pitam, ono sto si stavio na Hraweb, ono da ti se desilo s klipovima, Bacao si buhu zar ne?
a ja se totalno bacio na suosjecanje...joj joj...


To je klip iz CA18DET motora kojeg sam kupio sastrane.
Pukla mu je klipnjača ili bolcna. Dakle, je moj je motor, ali nisam ga ja rasturio.
Klipnjača je oštetila stublinu bloka, klip je popigao 2 ventila, pukla je konzola koja drži glavne ležaje, karter je puko. katastrofa kak se dezintegrirao motor. ::

[Edited on 26-1-2006 by ZaX]
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ZaX
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« Reply #8 on: January 30, 2006, 11:27:29 AM »

Vezano na "porez na budale" Željko kako mi objašnjavaš da bolt-on modifikcaije od greddya daju 80hp više pri istom tlaku turbine?

Oba auta su testirana u dasteku na dynou jedan za drugim.

265hp@5500rpm Opel 2.0, vf34@1.4b, sole grana, spuh, 1000ccm injektori, CAI, LSD, Autronic ECU
245hp@6000rpm Nissan 1.8 TD-05-14@0,7b, ex wastegate, greddy grana, greddy spuh, stock injektori, LSD, stock ecu

Porez na budele? Ne bih rekao. Mislim da se se žuti :karate: naslagali i natjunirali tih motora i da jako dobro znaju šta je najbolje za taj motor. Svaka čast domaćoj pameti, ali mislim da je nekad bolje kupit provjereni brand name, nego sad ići otkrivati "toplu vodu" sa domaćom pameti. Omjer uloženo dobiveno neću ni komentirati.

BTW, jučer stavio AFM od skylinea, sad fuel cut dolazi malo kasnije, ali tek kad stavim injetkore onda poćinje zabava.
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